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Unimproved breeds like the Mangalitsa are closely related to the European wild boar.
Wild boar is very lean and relatively unpalatable. When domesticating wild boar to produce the unimproved breeds, humans selected them for their ability to fatten and produce tasty meat.
Unlike the modern meat-type breeds, the unimproved ones shown below are lard-type. Lard-type breeds fatten easily and have very juicy, dark, marbled meat. They taste better than meat-type breeds.
Among lard-type breeds, there is variation. The Mangalitsa is an extreme lard-type breed; compared to other lard-type breeds, it fattens easier and has tastier meat.
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The various unimproved lard-type breeds are similar to each other in taste and other important qualities, but they are each adapted to their respective environments:
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In general, breeds like the Mangalitsa and the various Iberian varieties taste quite similar.
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All European pig breeds were unimproved until people started crossing Asian pigs with European breeds in the 18th century to produce the "improved" breeds.
For instance, the modern Berkshire breed was created by crossing unimproved British pigs with pigs from Asia (or their descendants). They were later selected for lean growth, which greatly reduced their meat and fat quality.
Before World War II, lard was extremely important, used for cooking, lubrication and making explosives. Vegetable oils, which are so common now, were expensive and went rancid quickly.
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The Mangalitsa was especially well-suited for lard production, because of its metabolism. It could be raised to 79% fat by weight, the highest percentage ever measured.
The Mangalitsa was so specialized for lard production that when the market for lard changed after World War II, the breed went from being economical to uneconomical very quickly, and nearly died out.
Before World War II, America's most popular pigs were improved lard-type breeds.
In response to the low prices for lard after World War II, breeders transformed the popular lard-type heritage breeds into "meat-type" breeds.
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Breeds like the Berkshire, famous for tasting above-average, have purposefully been bred leaner and less tasty. Marketers nevertheless use the term "heritage" to sell them to quality-seeking consumers.
The transformation of these once great-tasting breeds has created a huge difference in quality between the Mangalitsa and all popular breeds.
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Europe's lard-type breeds were in danger of disappearing with the switch to meat-types after World War II.
The willingness of some consumers to pay for the best means that the lard-type breeds have a future.
In Spain and Hungary, people raise lard-type animals and turn them into expensive cured meat.
In America, quality-seeking consumers buy Mangalitsa, the only readily available lard-type hog.
Next: Our First Encounter With Mangalitsa
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