In a Nutshell

Unimproved Lard-Type vs. Improved Meat-Type
2007 Mangalitsa
2006 American Berkshire
  1. More marbling, flavor and juiciness
  2. Low feed demands
  3. Slowly gains muscle
  4. Grows slowly
  5. Inefficient conversion of food
  6. Lighter, less-saturated fat
  7. Much more fat in carcass
  8. Mature later, fewer offspring, adults are smaller size
  9. Extremely disease and stress resistant
  1. Less marbling, flavor and juiciness
  2. High feed demands
  3. Easily gains muscle
  4. Grows quickly
  5. Efficient conversion of food
  6. Heavier, more saturated fat
  7. Much less fat in carcass
  8. Mature quickly, bigger litters, bigger adult animals
  9. Less disease and stress resistant

Unimproved Breeds

European Wild Boars

Unimproved breeds like the Mangalitsa are closely related to the European wild boar.

Wild boar is very lean and relatively unpalatable. When domesticating wild boar to produce the unimproved breeds, humans selected them for their ability to fatten and produce tasty meat.

Unlike the modern meat-type breeds, the unimproved ones shown below are lard-type. Lard-type breeds fatten easily and have very juicy, dark, marbled meat. They taste better than meat-type breeds.

Among lard-type breeds, there is variation. The Mangalitsa is an extreme lard-type breed; compared to other lard-type breeds, it fattens easier and has tastier meat.

European Unimproved Lard-type Breeds
Mangalitsa (Central Europe)
Iberian Black (Spain)
Alentejana (Portugal)

The various unimproved lard-type breeds are similar to each other in taste and other important qualities, but they are each adapted to their respective environments:

Mangalitsa Farm
  • The Mangalitsa has wooly hair, which helps it to deal with the temperature extremes - both hot and cold - of Central Europe.
  • The Iberian and Alentejana have much less hair because they live in a year-round mild climate.

In general, breeds like the Mangalitsa and the various Iberian varieties taste quite similar.

Improved Breeds

2007 Improved pigs

All European pig breeds were unimproved until people started crossing Asian pigs with European breeds in the 18th century to produce the "improved" breeds.

For instance, the modern Berkshire breed was created by crossing unimproved British pigs with pigs from Asia (or their descendants). They were later selected for lean growth, which greatly reduced their meat and fat quality.

Lard-type versus Meat-type

Before World War II, lard was extremely important, used for cooking, lubrication and making explosives. Vegetable oils, which are so common now, were expensive and went rancid quickly.

These Mangalitsas are 73-79% fat by weight, fattened for lard production.

The Mangalitsa was especially well-suited for lard production, because of its metabolism. It could be raised to 79% fat by weight, the highest percentage ever measured.

The Mangalitsa was so specialized for lard production that when the market for lard changed after World War II, the breed went from being economical to uneconomical very quickly, and nearly died out.

America

Before World War II, America's most popular pigs were improved lard-type breeds.

In response to the low prices for lard after World War II, breeders transformed the popular lard-type heritage breeds into "meat-type" breeds.

America's Heritage Breeds: Pre-War Lard-type
Lard Type: 1925 Poland China
Lard-type: 1919 Berkshire Boar
America's Heritage Breeds: Post-War Meat-type
Meat Type: 2005 Poland China
Meat-type: 2005 Berkshire Boar

Breeds like the Berkshire, famous for tasting above-average, have purposefully been bred leaner and less tasty. Marketers nevertheless use the term "heritage" to sell them to quality-seeking consumers.

The transformation of these once great-tasting breeds has created a huge difference in quality between the Mangalitsa and all popular breeds.

The Future for Mangalitsa and Other Unimproved Lard-Type Pigs

Superior products like these mean the Mangalitsa has a future.

Europe's lard-type breeds were in danger of disappearing with the switch to meat-types after World War II.

The willingness of some consumers to pay for the best means that the lard-type breeds have a future.

In Spain and Hungary, people raise lard-type animals and turn them into expensive cured meat.

In America, quality-seeking consumers buy Mangalitsa, the only readily available lard-type hog.

Next: Our First Encounter With Mangalitsa